THE fragrances people spray every day do more than leave a lingering scent. They can trigger memories, influence emotions and reveal the connection between chemistry and psychology.
UST alumna and fragrance chemist Louise Erika Vargas explained during the Chemistry Youth Lecture that perfumes contain aroma molecules that affect how people think, feel and remember experiences.
“By understanding the link of humans and psychology, mas maiintindihan ng consumers natin kung ano ‘yong perception ng scents sa everyday life,” Vargas told the Varsitarian.
The March 25 lecture, titled “Olfactory Influence: The Psychological Power of Fragrance Chemistry,” explored how perfumes evolved from ancient practices into a modern industry shaped by science, branding and consumer preference.
Vargas traced the origins of perfumery to ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia, where scents were used for rituals, hygiene and even protection from illness.
She cited “kyphi,” an ancient Egyptian perfume made from honey, wine, grapes, resins and juniper, as one of the earliest known fragrance products.
Vargas also discussed how Persian chemist and philosopher Avicenna developed steam distillation techniques that allowed flowers to be turned into scented oils during the Middle Ages.
According to Vargas, fragrances later became popular in Europe as a way to mask unpleasant odors, particularly amid the rise of leather tanneries in Grasse, France, now considered the perfume capital of the world.
Modern perfumery expanded in the 1800s with the introduction of synthetic compounds such as vanillin and coumarin, which made fragrances more flexible and affordable.
Vargas said Chanel No. 5 later became a turning point in the industry because of its heavy use of synthetic ingredients called aldehydes.
Today, however, younger consumers are shifting away from mass-market designer perfumes and toward niche and genderless fragrances.
Vargas said scents create “memory trails” that allow people to connect fragrances with experiences.
“So perfumers these days, they connect with their consumers with memory trails na rin and how they convey scent like they’re telling a story,” she said.
She explained the structure of perfumes, which consist of top, middle and base notes that vary in strength and longevity.
Top notes are the first scents detected after spraying perfume and are the quickest to fade. Middle notes develop after one to two hours and form the fragrance’s main character. Base notes are the lingering scents left on the skin and can last up to 10 hours depending on the formulation.
Vargas said fragrance notes—from citrus and floral to woody and musk—carry different psychological effects.
Citrus and aromatic scents may sharpen focus and mental clarity, while green, marine, fruity and floral notes evoke freshness, calmness, vitality and well-being. Oriental, gourmand, woody and musky scents are linked to sensuality, comfort, sophistication, warmth and intimacy.
Slight changes in a fragrance molecule can completely alter a scent. She cited carvone, a compound that can smell like spearmint or caraway depending on its molecular structure, and limonene, which gives oranges and lemons their distinct scents.
Some fragrance ingredients are now produced synthetically because of health regulations and growing concerns over animal-derived products.
“‘Yong production na ngayon ng green notes, nag-boom na kasi, regulatory-wise, hindi na good for [people’s] health ‘yung essential oils from mosses,” Vargas said. “Medyo mataas na rin ‘yung consciousness ng tao sa animal testing or [the use of] animal-derived products
The lecture ended with an interactive perfume-making activity in which students from the Department of Chemistry and Ateneo Casa Famiglia created their own fragrance blends.
In his opening remarks, Chemistry Youth Lecture chair Asst. Prof. Ernesto Paruli III emphasized chemistry’s relevance in everyday life and the Department of Chemistry’s role in the College of Science’s 100-year history.
“Why are we doing this? Well, for the mere reason that if you look around you, sa bahay, sa eskwelahan, sa trabaho, sa labas, you are surrounded by matter, the very object of study of chemistry,” Paruli said.
“Olfactory Influence: The Psychological Power of Fragrance Chemistry” was one of four lectures featured in the Department of Chemistry’s Chemistry Youth Lecture series in March as part of the College of Science’s centennial celebration.
